Monday, 11 May 2015

We:re going to Kumasi or Kumasi and back!

Change of plans. We are off to Kumasi today so we can look at a piece of land where we could set up both a water factory and the school. Only in a place where time means something very different do you find your plans change hour by hour, let alone day by day. It is however quite liberating to not have the diary so fixed as we tend to in the UK , at least for a Methodist minister who often knows what he is doing for the next six months.

First of all a wider observation. Wherever we have travelled I have seen the same immaculate  buildings set in lovely well tended and very green grassy grounds. These are of  course the buildings of the church of  latter day saints , otherwise known as Mormons. American Morman money is everywhere and it does not feel right. Not just because I am a Christian and they are a sect with some very dubious claims. No its the flaunting of wealth to buy your converts who live in the most appaling conditions. If you must spend your money here. Then do it to improve the roads, the sanitation, the education and health care.

Now back to the events of today.
 A word of warning. If travelling in Ghana please know how to keep your car moving!


On my first day here we had the fun of going shopping only to discover the car battery wouldn't start. Eric waved down a taxi and my first thought was jump leads. No they proceeded to take the battery out of the taxi with the help of a person from across the road. They then found two bits of metal to make the connection holding the battery against the dead one. With a switch of the ignition connection was made and the car started.  This experience should have prepared me for the trip to the second city of Ghana, Kumasi. 

Having been told we would go about 6 am we set off at 7.30pm. Now bearing in mind the last time I went there my wife Jill had been ill and it was the most horrendous trip ever. We too went from Cape Coast to Kumasi and  then had to travel back to Accra on the motorway. It was a nigtmare and we said we would never do that again. But we were only going from Cape Coast  to Kumasi what could possibley go wrong? My previous journey should have served as a warning. 


In fact we had a good run and I could take in the wonderful scenery on route. We arrived and picked  up the caretaker. This is the man who keeps an eye on Erics piece of land. Now bearing in mind a good battery had been put in the car we were using all should have been well. However we found the engine would not start. So Eric gets out, and with bits of wire and a rock, nails them to the contacts commenting on the fact the battery wasn't quite the right size for the  car! It started so don't complain Goodhand was my inner voice. That was the first of four times we had to do this.

So we went and took a look at the land, We plotted out how at one end a two storey building for the water factory could be built with living accomodation above for the manager and family. This then left good space for a two story nursery and reception class set up, with ground for a play area.

We set off to move on. Car wouldn't start and it was hit again with a rock and off we moved. Picking up hot sweet corn as a quick snack. It turned out that was a good move.

 Next we headed to see Mary's mum but she wasn't in. This shows the difference between cultures in dropping by, bearing in mind it takes at least three hours to get to Kumasi.  However she normally goes along to Church on a Tuesday morning so we headed off there. No she had gone, and car would not start. It was hit again and we moved off spotting mum on route. So we pulled over and had  the conversation in the car. She then got out and we moved on. Oh the car started okay. 
However Eric had said he wanted to get the brakes checked as they didn't feel quite right. A good move in my books safety comes first with a vehicle especially if I'm in it.

Now put to one side the idea of dropping into your local renault dealer where they jack the  car up with all the latest equipment or plug it into a computer to say what's wrong. No we headed to where a group of mechanics worked literally on the street. So we parked up and having agreed the price for the work 25 Ghanian cedi or £5 to you and me. He proceeded for the next two hours to sort the car. First wheel jacked up and yes you need new brake pads. Not having two jacks he highers the car further and then hunts down the street for the right size stones and promptley places them underneath, lowers the jack and lifts the other side with the jack. Yes brake pads required here as well. Total parts about 110 or £22 to you and me. 



So not only am I staggered by the skill the mechanic shows at the side of the road, bearing in mind he is working next to an open sewer that in the heat stinks, but how little he is paid for his work. In the UK I joke with Eric it could cost you your £27 for a quick look and to be told how much it would cost to fix labour and parts plus VAT. The mechanic runs to fetch the parts and having fitted the passenger side then discovers that the drivers side is not right. The bearings don't sound or feel good. Ah is he now trying to rip us off?  In fact no. He takes wheel off again and everything to get at the offending part, and takes it with Eric for a price. It turns out its okay just needs a good bit of grease. Inspite of the extra time taken and work he still only expects to be paid £5. Eric pays him more.

Chicken and chicks totally oblivious to work going on to fix car.

In the meantime while we wait a local shop provides not only shade but seats for Mary, Eric and myself. All perfectly normal. Now bearing in mind I'm not wearing a dog  collar a man still approaches me asking' pastor can you give me some money for food' . How does he know? Is it because I'm the only white person for miles therefore I must be a pastor? Eric is not impressed pointing out to the man he is smoking and only wants money for that purpose. It was something Jill and I noticed when we came two  years ago, actually people here don't smoke. I pursued  my normal policy no money only goods in kind. Not interested he moved on. In the light of Mr Duncan Smith being re appointed to complete his welfare reforms I am expecting  a lot more requests for help. As an aside.....

I loved the re tweet from a certain church member of mine on twitter. There's a picture from the film Brief encounter, except it's Mrs Margaret Thatcher face looking out the train window saying to David Cameron ' promise me David, you will look after the rich and ruin the country for everyone else, wont you..?
He replies 'Yes Margaret of course I will.'

The original tweet read 'You may not understand why older folk loathe Thatcher &  Thatchersim so much. You are about to find out first hand.

However I digress,  probabley having just annoyed a certain proportion of my congregations.

I noted two young men pushing and pulling a hand cart full of rubbish for the tip hot dirty work.

Car fixed we move on hot and tired. Yes it starts first time. Then we head to visit Mary's twin sister a caterer by trade who provides us with a much needed meal. Considering breakfast was taken at 6am and  its now 4pm I am getting peckish. We also had more cold water which was really required having already drunk three bottles by this point.
Home time I thought but no. We all piled into the car with Mary's sister. Yes you guessed it the car wouldn't   start and so it was hit again and off we moved. We went to look at a piece of land on the Kumassi to Accra road that the sisters want to buy. This is so Marys sister can run her catering buisness in the right location. Land approved we then head to see the owner who was in a hurry to sell and they wanted to make sure she didn't sell to anyone else.
Finally mission accomplished we dropped sister off and headed home. Oh did I say we were stopped on the way by the police but the officer turned out to be a Methodist so that was okay. On the way home we were stopped twice. First time I thought we were in trouble as one of the lights on the car was not working on main beam, but Eric placated the officer and we moved on. Next time stopped Eric was able to tell the policeman he knew and was allowed to journey on. Finally we returned home at 10.30pm the children fast asleep in the living room waiting for mum and dad to get back safely.

So once again I never got to see the massive market in Kumasi or the renowned kenti cloth making. I think I have a choice don't ever go there again as its never meant to be, or fly there from Accra its quicker.

And to top it all I went for a shower and the water wasnt running!!! Ghana love it or be frustrated. Its still amazing.

You might just see two men on motor bike one holding a goat over his lap.

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